photos: Trevor Tondro, Erin Baiano & Tony Cenicola for the New York Times
A very interesting NYT piece on affinage: the craft of maturing and aging cheeses that is taking on a nearly religious status with some of the country’s top cheese mongers. Revered by some (Murray’s Cheese, Artisanal) and debunked by others (Steven Jenkins of Fairway), the practice of affinage, first developed in France, is now being finely honed in temperature and humidity controlled “caves” below Bleecker Street, as well as by specialists and zealots all over the world, and has become a part of the great cheese debate so often written about and discussed within cheese making & epicurean circles. This debate precipitated a very interesting blind taste test for Tia Keenan, Julia Molskin and Florence Fabricant – some of New York’s top foodies and cheese specialists – the results of which might be what you’d expect if you follow this sort of thing. But, by all means, decide for yourself.